Caring For Your Blade

I write this section with the intention of providing a basic overview of how to care for a blade, in layman’s terms. I strongly recommend doing your own research into proper methods of materials preservation. There are many professional opinions out there worth reading. 

Steel Preservation

Many bladesmiths working in the custom knife industry favor non-stainless steels. The alloying elements used to create a stain resistance, in steel, can leave the metal with some less desirable characteristics. These appear foremost (for the buyer), as blade embrittlement, and poor edge retention. Recipes for new stainless alloys are constantly being minutely tweaked and perfected, in order to counteract these negative effects. While stainless steel is no longer a poor choice for a blade, it is still not up to the level of performance of many steels, that are not forced to combat these impairments.

I use steel alloys that can and will rust if not properly protected. For a plain steel knife, this can be corrected by a proper application of time, care and sand paper. However, for pieces made of Damascus steel or featuring a Hamoan, this is something you do not want to do. The surface of these styles of blades are acid etched to reveal a pattern in the steel. The patterns are formed by structures and, or layers that exist throughout the entire piece of steel, but are only visible because of the etch. This surface etch is at most a few thousandths of an inch deep, and is easily removed by abrasives. Rust can pit a blade too deep to be sanded out without changing the appearance. If the pitting is close to the edge, sanding could alter the edge geometry, potentially compromising the cutting ability of the blade. 

Preventing your blade from rusting is simple. It comes down to protecting the surface of your steel. This can be accomplished by keeping the blade cleaned and oiled. After use, clean off all contaminants with non-abrasives and apply a thin film of oil to the entire surface of the blade. A good rule of thumb is to always keep your blade dry. If it has Damascus, or non-stainless steel fittings, you will want to treat them the same way you would treat the blade. You can use many oils to protect the surface. If you have an oil you are unsure of, see what people say about it online. I use food safe mineral oil for most blades, and vegetable or coconut oil for culinary knives. I would caution against the use of vegetable and coconut oils on blades being stored in leather sheaths. These oils build up inside a sheath, and can deteriorate over time or turn rancid, which can cause corrosion on the blade [1]. It is better to stick with something like mineral oil if it is not being used to process food stuffs. Be aware that many oils are hazardous to health, and have been linked to causing cancer. Practice safe application techniques.

Preservation of Natural Materials

To me, there is no material more pleasurable for a handle than wood, unless it is leather. Many woods lend a natural beauty to a piece, along with providing a comfortable grip. However, there are downsides to wood and other natural materials, that you may not encounter with synthetics. They can be brittle, less resistant to shocks, strains, heat and moisture. Wood, for example, is a porous material subject to the relative humidity of the air and exposure to moisture. When it soaks up moisture, it expands. When it releases moisture, it contracts. Over time this can stress weak points in the wood, causing it to pull itself apart. Any crack is a point of weakness which can spell the end of the handle, if left unattended.

When finishing up a handle, I apply a protective coating to the wood. Over time, this can get rubbed off or deteriorate and it will need to be replaced. There are lots of methods and products for protecting wood. For example, there are oils that soak into the pores and harden upon drying, such as Danish or TruOil. This type of protection is highly effective, because it penetrates the pores of the wood leaving a surface that is more resilient and water repellent. 

Leather preservation is similar to wood preservation in that it only requires infrequent attention. A little waterproofing here, a little oiling there... Depending on your personal tastes and how the leather is being utilized, neither of these are entirely necessary. If you have a leather sheath for a favorite hunting knife that travels with you during the stormy seasons, it is worth investing in some waterproofing products. If your favorite sword belt only gets put on a couple times a year for fairs and festivals, and sits around getting stiff the rest of the time, invest in some leather conditioner to keep it supple and free of cracks. Don't leave leather in sunlight for long periods of time if it can be avoided.

The underlying theme here is to understand that materials, like us, deteriorate over time. A little effort applied at the proper time can help your piece to last for years and even generations. All of these preventative strategies are simple and effective. None are expensive or time consuming.

In General

Use common sense while handling blades. Remember that they are potentially dangerous objects, capable of causing mortal injury to your person. Be careful whenever using a blade; they can and will cut you if you do not act with caution and deliberation. They are not pry-bars nor screw drivers; the use of a blade in such a manner will automatically disqualify it from my consideration of repair or replacement. Unless designed specifically for throwing, it can be assumed that no knife is meant to be, nor should be, thrown. Doing so can cause irreversible damage to any part of a blade or its handle. Evidence of this sort of activity immediately disqualifies it from my consideration of repair or replacement(free of charge).  

References:

[1]  Hrisoulas, J. (1991). The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel. Boulder, Colorado: Paladin Press.